In search of the Panther

So I headed back into the jungle with some friends; you might ask like my dad: Jungle? In Peru? well, yes there is a place called the Amazon...

Watching the cloud forest turn into rainforest I was contemplating what makes me so drawn to the jungle: is it the adventure, the smells and noises or just the endless possibilites of what is out there? I remember whilst studying at university in Lund I used to walk past the zoological faculty every day, and wonder why I was not there. Even biking past the zoological society of London zoo( just after the giraffes) I was always hoping to somehow be involved there. But so far, all I can do is put my safari gear on and head into the different jungles I am close to, and this time it was Manu. Apart from the wildlife in Manu what really excited me was that there are still uncontacted indigineous tribes living there. If you are really lucky( or unlucky depending on what happens next) you might run into them on the river. That is what our guide had done once, they came towards him and a tourist in their canoes stark naked. The natives are protected so you are not allowed to touch them as this can spread diseases to them, but this time the chief had paddles up to the guide, taken his hat, put it on ( whilst the tourist quickly took a pic which is now famous here) gave the hat back and then they were gone. Please click below on the link to find out how you can help protecting these tribes.

http://www.survivalinternational.org/tribes/isolatedperu

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-1022822/Incredible-pictures-Earths-uncontacted-tribes-firing-bows-arrows.html

Cock of the rock mating.

                                                         One of the lodges we stayed in.

                                               The tranquil Oxbow lake where we
                                                travelled around in wooden canoes.

This is a legal coca farm...

Coca has been used by the Inkas for over 5000 years and is a sacred plant for them.  They chew the leaves, which are really nutritious and contains lots of protein.  Medical research has shown that the natives in Cusco who chew the Coca has very strong bones and overall aer very healthy compared to people who do not chew the Coca. Cocaine is processed by mixing the alkoids from the leaves and mixing it with lovely chemicals like acetone etc.

Just finished " The picture of Dorian Gray" again, so well written and funny and crazy.

Whale song

My thoughts on tourism and photography are a bit muddled up:  To experience life through a camera lens, surely means that one is detached from the reality of the moment and is not truly experiencing it with full senses and emotions?

I am as guilty as most people I meet, so that is why I am wondering if it is posssible to capture the moment and actually be in the "now" with it? While going on a two-day whale watch tour in Hervey bay I tried to do both. And you know what? it worked, but maybe I was just lucky? When the amazing creature rose from the deep sea and came up so close that I could touch him, I took some pictures quickly and then put the camera down to let the moment wash over me with all the emotions that followed. I have seen whales before in the wild but each time I see them I can not believe how big and spectacular they are, it is a life changing moment, watching and hearing them sing up and close.

 Each year the humpback whales migrate from Antarctic waters to eastern coast of Australia where they mate and then give birth. Hervey bay is the best place in Australia to view them and in high season in August there will be around 300 whales moving around in the relatively small  Platypus bay by the coast of Fraser Island. Then in October they start to migrate back to Antarctica to feed.
As you know they are still being hunted by Japan, Norway and Iceland and therefore need all the help and protection we can give them. Whales have been on our planet for more than 50 million years and are important for the marine environment. Even after the whaling ban went into effect in 1986; 30 000 whales have been killed for commercial purposes. There are lots of organisations you can join in order to help and it is important that we do. Please see more info on IFAW's  website.

Dolphins and Humpback whales playing around.

The sunshine state

The next day I was in heaven cuddling up to Koalas and Kangaroos in Lone pine coala sanctuary a life long dream come true. Apparently they are really sensitive on their nose, so my wish to touch it was not fullfilled but for your information : it feels like stroking a kiwi. They are such lovely creatures, all drugged up from the eucalyptus trees of course, so really mellow and cuddly. I love the way their bum has yellow color in it so as to blend in with the environment of trees and sun rays.

Spending a few hours hanging around with the cool cangaroos and woolabies was also an out of the world experience I'll never forget. When we finally managed to leave the amazing creatures we took the road through the beautiful Glass house mountains and watched the sunset over the volcanoes.

Glass house mountains ( cangaroos in the far distance)

Dolphins and waterfalls

A few days were spent in the more secluded area of the north where  the sand on the beach comes from the volcanos. In Lovina we took a boat out and spent time watching lots of dolphins and found an amazing Warung( local restaurant) with the best grilled seafood. After having finished many a book already I am hoping that my reading is starting to follow some sort of common thread and going in the same direction.

We travel around mostly on scooter ( I know it is not the most environmentally friendly way but we are two on one) and take different daytrips from where we stay. We stopped in  Munduk up in the hills to admire the views and

go hiking to the different waterfalls. We also found hot springs to cool down in.....No not a good idea and a lovely quiet buddhist monastery to rest in . Sometimes we treat ourselves to one of the great Bali treatments, and again: I love how they pride themselves by going that bit furter to make simple rituals so beautiful with flowers and smells.

Cheeky monkeys

We left the quiet Bukit penninsula a week ago to travel around the island. Our first stop was Seminyak which is full of expats. The main reason you want to stay there is if you want to get some sun and surf.

After a few days we were ready to go to Ubud which is in the heart of the country and is surrounded by beautiful rice fields and tropic vegetation. It is well known as a place where artists come to live as well as various health and spriritual seekers.
Talking of which it amazes me how quickly my inner hippie comes back to life after smelling a few incense and seeing some ethnic colored bags. Immediately I want to jump back into harem pants and start going back to healers and various clairvoyants. I know most of you are embarassed about this side of me but the girl can't help it.  I mean sometimes all I need is to whiff down to Camden market and I am on fire.

Anyway my day starts with me trying to keep hold of all my belongings so that the monkeys don't steal anything on my way to the sunrise yoga class at the amazing yoga barn.

Yesterday when I arrived back after class all that was left of our breakfast was some sugar. C was a bit chocked after having had a staring game with one monkey who had a baby, let's just say C did not win.The monkeys had taken everything, even the teacups and saucers! They were hanging around the trees checking if I was bringing anything else they could eat.  Apparently they are always many more and cheekier when there is a ceremony coming up, which was today. (How do they know  the Hindu  calendar of ceremonies??). All of a sudden they were all gone though, the reason being that they start work at 9!! All the tourists are arriving at the famous monkey forest sanctuary then, which means they get free bananas in payment for some monkey business.

Yesterday we went on a beautiful rice paddy walk and ended up rained in at a local artist couple's house. They were adorable, and offered us shelter with tea and coffee and a few hours of conversation. Those unexptected moments are one of the best things about traveling.
Is it because we are not time aware and without a schedule that they seem to happen more often than usual?

We ended up eating in the amazing Sari organic where everything has grown and been produced on the spot. I can not rave enough about the food in Ubud. Everything has so much flavour. Wow what a lovely day..